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“I’m so bored. I hate my life.” - Britney Spears
Das Langweilige ist interessant geworden, weil das Interessante angefangen hat langweilig zu werden. – Thomas Mann
"Never for money/always for love" - The Talking Heads
Thursday, August 20, 2026
A gnomic note
Tuesday, August 18, 2026
Notes on an Irish vacation
- On the last day here, in the sauna of Dublin’s Boddington Hotel, to
be exact, I saw, or perhaps the sensory word I’m looking for is heard, the
origin of Joyce’s Dubliners. Not denying the mythic pattern, the Irish and
indeed world history, the immense theological knowledge, the intertextuality
that Joyce could pull out of his ass by the yardful – to all of that I tip my
hat, of course. But the birth is from Irish small talk, of which I was a privileged
witness sitting there absorbing the heat on a bench above two types – a good
looking gent in his fifties and a pretty woman who in the course of conversation
revealed her age to be 58. It was hard to say whether these two knew each other
extensively or had met for some convention at the hotel, but the man was
sharing his tale of stomach upset and ulcer that had put him off his feed for
who knows how long and the woman was full of commiseration, for hadn’t she too
had a sickness in her 51st to 54th years? And he was on
about how the pills worked but he didn’t want to get addicted, and she was on
about how you can’t let things go to fast, for they will go fast, and the man
said he couldn’t even fucking take a walk and his dad had said the same thing
about time, said it to him when his dad was sixty, and the woman instanced a
recent news item, even from yesterday, the whole family in that terrible car
crash, out for a vacation they were, and the man had heard of it, and the woman
said they’ll never get back their life.
And I had to think of the two Dubliners who bought tickets
to go to the top of the Nelson pillar of accursed memory. Or of Stephen
Daedalus’s extensive and crumbled jottings. Notes to self.
- In William Butler Yeats’s poem In Memory of Major Robert
Gregory there is a verse that goes:
“And then I think of old George Pollexfen,
In muscular youth well known to Mayo men
For horsemanship at meets or at racecourses,
That could have shown how pure-bred horses
And solid men, for all their passion, live
But as the outrageous stars incline…”
I quote this quite dispassionately, but I have memories
mixed with it – walking down the slope of Church Street in Clarkston Georgia as
a high school student whose sense of poetry and the larger life I thought I
could never live on roads like that of Church Street in a suburban Atlanta was
stirred by Yeats so that these verses were more than verses, once, but the smuggled in sawblade by
which I’d saw through the bars of the prison – a heated adolescent idea, but mine once, then.
In Yeats’s biography, he mentions, briefly, that George Pollexfen was a mystic,
an uncle, and that he lived in Ballina. I have now been to Ballina and it is
Church Street in Clarkston with uglier buildings and a Papa Johns that serves fries
with its Pizza. It is true that “Many ingenious lovely things are gone/ That
seemed sheer miracle to the multitude”, but lets not get carried away with
Greek ivories- there’s always Church Street in Clarkston Georgia, in a point of
view that has entirely dwindled, in a man that has waxed and waned and seen
Ballina on a gloomy drizzly day.
Of course, very likely the Anglo-Irish relatives of Yeats’s
were acquainted more with the Knox-Gore family, who lived rather eccentrically
in a modest castle and a fairy wood, the Belleek forest, outside Ballina. The Knox-Gores were great ones for
horseflesh, and so was Pollexfen.
- The impressive mountain peak above us, which in the
morning was wreathed with clouds, is called Croag Patrick, a name that our
tongues play with a bit: Croag, Craig. It comes up from the Clewe bay, which
made Westport a considerable export import competitor of Galway and Sligo at
one point, until the bay’s comparative shallowness made for problems with the
modern deeper freightors. All that is knowledge from the cruise, which we took
three days after this ascent I’m talking about.
The Rough Guide says of the peak’s trail: “… taking an
average of 3 and ½ hours return, is easy to follow, though steep in places –
you will need good walking shoes and a stick.” True enough, although it would
have been nice to add that it isn’t the steepness as much as the way the path
up to the top is firstly dirt, scree, and some medium boulders, and secondly
something like oyster shell, easy to tread, and for the last third is a winding
nightmare of jagged broken boulders and small ones that seem deliberately
designed to impede the walker and to send signals to the knees and legs that
are received even days afterwards.
Hazel sticks are definitely a necessity, even as we are
summing these things up from the parking lot and having no idea of what the
path is like. So we get them, two euros a piece at the kiosk, and start off in
high spirits. The clouds lift, the views spread out below us, and we talk of
what the guide book says – that pilgrims make the trek on Reek Sunday, the last
Sunday in July. Barefoot! That sounds like with a little tricky footing and sneaks
we ought to do nicely.
Up we tread. Up we plod. We make our way up the path of
dirt, scree, small boulders, and we see the hills on either side of us in
panoramascope all the way to the Ocean and the islands in the bay, and we think
that this is what we came for. We picnic on some boulders a third of the way
up. Tuna sandwiches. Apples. Blueberries. Water.
At this point, unbeknownst to us, we were merely a ticklish
distance along – a fourth of the way, maybe. The mile and a half to come would
not be so easily covered. Oh, we were walking over the mountain, but, as we saw
in retrospect, the mountain was also walking over us. I myself began to doubt
of everything when, in the end, I was going up the craggy, helixy curves that
were in steep ascent, in a sheer grade of crazy rockiness, to the grassy couple
acres of the summit. I was being passed by young hikers chatting and picking
their way without much effort, and by more middle aged and elder types who
encouraged each other – we were strangers all but bound by the journey, I
suppose. It was nice to see bare chested rather athletic looking men getting
all deflated as the climb went on, and sitting down, finally, tacitly admitting
that no, they were not going to bull their way up. And myself, I thought, what
the fuck am I doing here? I knew the top would not be worth this much strain on
the old body.
The mountain was definitely walking over me. Later, we made
our way back to Enniscrone and had a quiet spaghetti dinner and exhaustion ran
around the table.
- So many ruined fortresses, abbies, houses. So many cows
and sheep and their odor in the wind. Particularly recommend Easky for its cliffs,
and the cliffs near Ceid Fields, although the latter are not for wandering
around on a windy day. Every day there is, of course, windy, so there is that.
Other notes will come as I think of them, my comrádaí!
Wednesday, August 05, 2026
Poem by Karen Chamisso
On the West Irish coast
Wednesday, July 29, 2026
The prisoner of cool, or down among the zeros
Tuesday, July 28, 2026
Poem by Karen Chamisso
There are certain who can read a face
And certain who can’t.
A face like a novel
The wrinkles intrigue, the mouth irony
The eyes, who hasn’t been there?
Promiscuity at the heart of vision
And the hair ears cheeks
And the whole shebang in motion
The faces that populate us until
One of them, leaning over
Sez: she’s gone.
Someone to close your eyes.
Sunday, July 26, 2026
The Bishop and the spider: George Berkeley's grand tour
It is interesting to contemplate the fact that in the period
between 1712-1717, Vico, Shaftesbury and Berkeley were all either living in or
visiting Naples. Schaftesbury, who was raised, in a manner of speaking, by
Locke, and rejected his tutor unequivocally – Berkeley, who grew to detest
Shaftesbury’s philosophy as the very antithesis of religion and a much more
poisonous skepticism than that he was accused of promoting; and Vico, whose
sense of doing battle with the moderns has much in common with Shaftesbury’s
sense that raillery and wit were marks of true intellectual freedom, and
conversation the method of wisdom – which is another aspect of Vico’s defense
of topoi against mere logic. All, in turn, knew Paolo Doria, into whose salon
each man, at various times, ventured.
The trip Berkeley made with a young nobleman, Ashe, through
France and into Italy, was notable for the legendary meeting between the Bishop
and the French philosopher, Malebranche, in which the Bishop murdered
Malebranche. Or, more kindly, accidentally sorta killed him: “Father Malebranched
died at Paris on the 13th of October, 1715, in his 77th
year. If we are to believe the common story of his illness, Berkeley and the
young Ashe must have been there in the autumn of the year, for Berkeley,
according to the story, was the “occasional cause” of the death of Malebranche, according to one Stocke: “’He
[Berkeley] found the ingenious father in a cell, cooking, in a small pipkin, a
medicine for a disorder with which he was troubled – an inflammation of the
lungs. The conversation naturally turned to Berkeley’s system, of which he had
received some knowledge from a translation just published. But the issue of the
debate proved tragical to poor Malebranche. In the heat of the disputation, he
raised his voice so high, and gave way so freely ot the natural impetuosity of
a man of parts and a Frenchman, that he brought on himself a violent increase
of his disorder, which carried him off a few days later.”
Few philosophical refutations have ever been this complete.
And so to Rome and points South. However, as Thomas Jones
puts it in his biography of Berkeley from 2021: “There is no evidence,
however, that Berkeley read Vico or met him during his time there.” Which
means that Berkeley did not have another philosophical notch to put on his
belt.
I wonder if Berkeley spoke to Doria of the tarantella. I wonder if there is any
meaning in the fact that this idealist metaphysician – to label him in the
classroom way – was so fascinated with both the tarantula and the stories of
the effect of its bite. Surely as a clergyman, Berkeley was enrolled, forcibly,
in the struggle against popular superstition. But Berkeley did not have
Shaftesbury’s Tory contempt for the people - his Italian journal is full of
incidents that show Berkeley as something more like an anthropologist than
judge, recording the dirtiness of cleanliness of towns, the agricultural
prospects of the countryside, the speech of the peasants with a certain tone of
equanimity and fairness that surely was his tone, and one of the reasons he could
get on with Swift.
But to my business: the future bishop and the spider.
The first mention of the tarantella in the journal is about a doctor who is met
with on the road as Berkeley is going into Calabria. The doctor has cheerful
contempt fo the peasant superstition of the tarantella, and attributes it to
the peasants almost sexual love for drama. seems fascinate
After this, Berkeley records what a certain “Consul” in Tarentum told him about
it:
“Tarantato that we saw dance here, no lookingglass or sword ; stamped,
screeched, seemed to smile sometimes; danced in a circle like the others. The
Consul, &c. inform us that all spiders except the long-legged ones bite,
causing the usual symptoms, though not so violent as the large ones in the
country. He tells me the tarantula causes pain and blackness to a great space
round the bite; thinks there can be no deceit, the dancing is so laborious ;
tells me they are feverish mad, and sometimes after dancing throw themselves
into the sea, and would drown if not prevented ; that in case the tarantula be
killed on biting, the patient dances but one year ; otherwise to the death of
the tarantula.”
The next day, passing through a small Italian town, Berkeley talks with an
Albanian priest about the spider: “The priest told us the arm, e. g. being
bitten by the tarantula swelled, confirmed, as indeed everybody, that common
notion of the tarantula's death curing the bite. His house very neat.
Everywhere great respect for a knowledge of the English, owing to our commerce,
fleets, and armies.” In a stop at Gavina, evidently to continue his enquiries, Berkeley
learns this: “Tarantula not in this country ; he hath seen several bitten with
a black swoln mark as large as half-a-crown ; they knew not they were bitten
till dancing ; tarantula bites only in the hot months ; a peasant at Canosa
laughed at their biting, and said he had often taken them in his hands.” In Ascola,
or in the environs of the town, Berkeley and his companion eat beans with some
peasants in a field: “They boast of a saint's finger kept in a church of a
convent on a hill overlooking the town, which, so far as the church is visible,
prevents the bite of the tarantula.” Approaching Vesuvius, Berkeley notes:
“Taurasi and La Torella. Fricento belongs to the Principe della Torella ;
25,000 souls [2500. M.J ; July and J August without fires. An image on Monte
Virgine protects the country about as far as visible from tarantulas, which,
say they, are here likewise. Two bears slain last year in a neighbouring wood.”
Berkeley wrote a letter about Vesuvius to John Arbuthnot – one of Berkeley’s
set, along with Pope and Swift- in which he recounts its eruption and the
horrible noise it makes – a letter that makes one wonder if Swift slyly poked
at it in Gulliver’s Travels. He would have known of it not only because letters
were passed around in the set, but also because the letter was published by the
Royal Society. It was one of the odder gothic habits of 18th century intellectuals
– like Wincklemann, in the 1760s – to climb Vesuvius and marvel at the lava
flows. Wincklemann and his companions, the rather louche Baron d’Hancarville,
tossed down a few bottles of wine on the summit. Berkeley doesn’t mention
drinking anything.
Jones notes Berkeley’s personal experience with the spiders: “Whilst sitting by
a well at Matera, Berkeley discovered he was surrounded by tarantulas. Berkeley
noted connections between tarantism and the practices and beliefs of contemporary
Italian Catholicism that in general he found superstitious. Franciscans at
Casalnuovo (except Capucins) were neither bitten by nor afraid of tarantulas,
as they were ‘cursed by St. Francis’. Apparently ‘the habit worn 24 hours
cures the Tarantato’.”
It is easy to think of Berkeley as a man who developed from
philosophy books his own philosophical account of perception, the perceived,
and the mind. To trace from Locke to Berkeley to Hume a certain theme. But Berkeley
was embedded, as well, in a world in which superstition and miracle were on one
side, and an orderly consideration of reason and the symbolism of the Gospel
was on the other. Unlike Locke and Hume, Berkeley was a well travelled man. He
went across the Atlantic and spent time in Rhode Island; he drew up plans for
the colony of Bermuda; and he hired peasants to find spiders in the fields of
Southern Italy.
After arriving at Naples, Berkeley seems to lose interest in
the tarantula, and takes up another custom: the nasty habit of murder that has
sprung up among the inhabitants of Southern Italy. In a letter to Pope about
the island of Ischia, he writes: “and were they but as much strangers to
revenge as they are to avarice and ambition, they might in fact answer the
poetical notions of the golden age. But they have got, as an alloy to their
happiness, an ill habit of murdering one another on slight offences. We had an
instance of this the second night after our arrival, a youth of eighteen being
shot dead by our door : and yet by the sole secret of minding our own business,
we found a means of living securely among those dangerous people.”
Wednesday, July 22, 2026
on Loafing
I celebrate myself, and sing myself,
A gnomic note
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